Searching for Prudence Penny, Food Writer

Introduction: In this article, Gena Philibert-Ortega searches old newspapers to learn more about a popular food writer: Prudence Penny. Gena is a genealogist and author of the book “From the Family Kitchen.”

There’s a benefit to being known for a niche. Because most people know that I study cookbooks, it’s not unusual for audience members at my genealogy lectures to bring me a cookbook or two. The great thing about that is I’m able to add new and interesting cookbooks to my collection.

So the other day, a friend approached me at a presentation to give me a cookbook that was gifted to her mother in the late 1930s. This author was someone I had heard of but didn’t know much about: Prudence Penny. With her unusual name, I knew that I needed to know more. The cookbook? Prudence Penny’s Cookbook (1939).

Who Was Prudence Penny?

Initially, the only thing I knew about Prudence Penny was that, like Betty Crocker, “she” wasn’t just one person but a pen name for several food writers. Author Kimberly Wilmot Voss confirms this in her book, The Food Section: Newspaper Women and the Culinary Community:*

“A common practice of newspaper food writers was to use pen names, often at the request of management because they wanted to preserve the continuity of the columnist; after all, it was expected the female reporter would leave employment once married.”

She goes on to explain:

“The Hearst newspaper chain used the pen name ‘Prudence Penny’ for the position of food reporter at many of its papers beginning after World War I.”

Each Hearst-owned newspaper hired their own Prudence to answer letters and write columns. So, in fact, there were many different people at one time who played the role of Prudence Penny across the United States. Prudence Penny advertised foods, penned recipes and cookbooks, made appearances before women’s groups and at supermarkets, and provided advice to housewives via the radio.

This 1923 newspaper article about an appearance in Riverside County, California, describes Miss Penny as an honored guest – but does not reveal the name behind the woman portraying her. The article does, however, acknowledge that:

“Prudence Penny, the name under which this expert on home problems writes, was adopted because of its alliteration and suggestiveness. Miss Penny is a housekeeper and home maker of much experience, and her articles are widely read.”

Prudence’s alter egos weren’t always so secretive. Newspaper articles about Prudence indicate that the women behind the name did occasionally give lectures to groups using their real names. This 1933 newspaper article reports that Prudence Penny AKA Mrs. Norma Young was the November speaker at the San Diego Advertising Club.

Newspaper Recipes & Advice Columns

First and foremost, Prudence was an advice columnist. She provided women with recipes and advice on cooking, as well as other home endeavors like cleaning and child raising.

Of course, in some cases mentions of her in the newspaper, as with many food columns, were advertisements for new products or tried and tested products like this “article” about a product to help make jelly easier.

Readers sought Prudence Penny’s advice on a range of topics. The editors of the Riverside Independent Enterprise urged their readers:

“Come to Prudence Penny with your troubles.”

One reader, who simply identified herself as “Mother,” asked Prudence for advice about fairies.

Mother: “You seem so sensible, I appeal to you to settle a question. Do you consider it wise to permit children to believe in fairies and a Santa Claus? Isn’t it just foolishness?

Prudence: “Oh, lady dear! Maybe it is foolish, but it is so jolly and sweet to believe in fairies. I would not part with the memory of my love of the fairies, my joy in old Santa and my keen desire to see a ‘really truly’ fairy for worlds. The make-believe I learned as a child has helped me over many of the rough places in later life and, while it is a matter you must decide for yourself, my advice is to give the children just as much of the joy of life, the happiness and imagination as you consistently can.”

Prudence Penny’s 1939 Cookbook

So, what about that new cookbook in my collection? Prudence actually wrote many regional cookbooks as well as one that addressed World War II food ration restrictions. My new 1939 Prudence Penny’s Cookbook was written by the Prudence working at the Los Angeles Examiner newspaper, so the cookbook does have a Los Angeles feel. Even the Forward was written by an actor, Leo Carillo.

Like many popular books, the Prudence Penny Cookbook was reviewed in the newspaper when it came out. This 1939 newspaper review is less than glowing, though the writer seems to find some merit in the layout of the book:

“Her recipes are clearly given; often cooking temperature and time appear directly under the title, and she is, thank goodness, kind enough to refrain from that maddening habit of most cookbook authors – presenting a recipe and then referring the reader to a basic one on another page to be cut in half, doubled, or generally messed about before the additional ingredient and procedure may be used. I have always resented trying to hold an unyielding cookbook open at two widely separated pages at the same time – just because the author or compiler was too lazy to duplicate directions!”

The reviewer does mention that Prudence includes an unusual section of recipes in her cookbook. The chapter, “Popular California Foreign Foods,” begins:

“Each state has its own talking points. We, here in California, talk all the time about everything. But, in the next pages, let’s talk about those foreign foods which are so popular, not only with the native sons, but with every visitor and guest.”

Recipes provided are for Chinese, Italian, and Spanish dishes.

So, you might be wondering what recipe is my favorite from Prudence Penny’s Cookbook. It’s hard to pick just one but I always enjoy seeing how recipes and tastes have changed over the years. I think this Peanut Butter and Bacon appetizer is a good example. While I realize anything is better with bacon, I’m not sure about combining peanut butter, horseradish, and bacon.

Another recipe that interests me – and was a favorite of your ancestors – was Mock Turtle Soup. Any recipe that substitutes an ingredient for another can be a “mock” recipe. You might be surprised at what substitutes for turtle meat: calf’s head. I’m not sure who figured out that calf’s head tasted like turtle, but that substitution can be found in cookbooks from the late 19th century. This Mock Turtle Soup recipe was provided by Jean Hersholt, an actor who might be best remembered for playing Shirley Temple’s grandfather in the 1937 movie Heidi.

Do you own a Prudence Penny cookbook? Did a family member clip recipes from the newspaper that Prudence penned? Was your family member a food writer who wrote under the Prudence Penny nom de plume? I’d love to hear about it in the comments section below.

Related Articles:

• Betty Crocker: America’s Favorite Fictional Cook
• The First Foodie: Clementine Paddleford

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* Voss, Kimberly W. The Food Section: Newspaper Women and the Culinary Community. Lanham: Rowman & Littlefield, 2014. Pages 27-28.